She makes a homemade version of Nabisco’s Fig Newton too. The window’s filled with elaborate cakes–a pink single-layer number with bright orange flowers, a four-tiered white meringue wedding cake, and a winter-themed creation decorated with white snowballs and snowflakes made from fondant–but I love Samuels’s takeoffs on Hostess favorites: the Twinkie-like Airstream, an imitation Sno Ball called the Igloo, and a chocolate-covered whoopie pie that tastes like a Ding Dong. I had to build the space out and build a real kitchen.” She finally opened ANGEL FOOD BAKERY in September. Before I got there a woman had a small little funky cafe called the Sahara Cafe for like nine months. “There’s a lot of businesses that have come and gone in that space.” She remembers a few of them: “There was a restaurant equipment store I think there was a Mexican restaurant, and two other cafes. Then a space that she’d had her eye on for years opened on the corner of Montrose and Marshfield. She made cakes for weddings, birthdays, bar mitzvahs, and other special occasions out of the kitchen of her studio apartment in Andersonville. “If it’s too pricey the neighbor can’t come every day.” Indie Cafe is BYO bring a crisp sparkling wine, Prosecco, champagne, cava, or a rounded acidic white from Alsace or Austria’s Wachau Valley.įor ten years Stephanie Samuels’s baked goods were available by special order only. “We want to make the restaurant where the neighbor can walk and eat out every day,” says Waranon. Arun Sampanthavivat might want to take note of this place, as the food here comes closer to his exquisite cuisine than anything else in town, and at a fraction of the prices at Arun’s. Americans don’t like spicy food usually.” If you ask for your food Thai hot, she’ll accommodate you. I try not to change very much to cook here, but Thai people like to eat very spicy food. “Most of what she taught me is very authentic Thai. Ouddy Puncharean and Iggy Waranon (a co-owner) make the Thai food Waranon learned from her mother in Bangkok. Everything is arranged beautifully: maki slices stand in a circle next to tiny mountains of ginger and wasabi and swirls of spicy mayo dotted with black sesame seeds curries have sprigs of greens jutting out at acute angles and frilly herb garnishes. The individual nigiri, two to an order ($3-$6), are fresh, generous cuts of fish on delicately seasoned rice pillows. The Volcano Roll is nori rolled tight around thick slices of smoked salmon, yellowtail, crab, and octopus, with a luscious spicy mayo and speckles of bright red sriracha hot sauce on top. The sushi, made by chef and owner Montra Kaenkumjorn, is delicious too. The richness of the red curry and the subtle sweetness of the coconut milk in the Indie Signature Curry are likewise exquisitely counterpoised–it’s tempting to slurp the leftover sauce straight from the bowl when you’re done with the tender chunks of beef and potato. The Andaman Salad, for instance, a substantial melange of steamed shrimp, succulent scallops, and calamari tossed with red onion, shredded carrots, and a sauce made with lemongrass, lime, and hot peppers, perfectly balances sweet, salty, spicy, and crunchy. The new restaurant serves Thai food too, along with Japanese, but it’s way above average in terms of quality, presentation, and value. Indie just took over the tiny space previously occupied by Lily of Thai, a comfy but mediocre neighborhood Thai place. It may be wrong to celebrate a restaurant’s closing, but when its replacement is as good as INDIE CAFE, there’s reason to rejoice. 7/28: Lawyers for Social Justice Reception.
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